SARAJEVO — day 1 — Field Notes

It’s not hard to fall in love with Sarajevo. It’s Balkan charm nestled within a dome of low mountains and the beautiful river flowing down the middle and the gondola cutting through sky immediately taps the romantic adventurer in all of us. Even if we aren’t skiers or mountaineers or Casanovas, we suddenly feel that we could, magically, become so.

What the War Stole

War leaves scars. I think some people spend the rest of their lives as the walking wounded and I’m not sure that is a healing of any kind. Some heal but the damage lives with…